Day 3 – From Nonaka to Yunomine Onsen

The sun came out for us today, although we began walking with misty views of the mountains around us.  Our guest house host drove us and two other residents back up the hill to the tea house where we had stopped yesterday.  We were VERY glad of this as it was VERY steep, and would have added quite a long time to our day – which we didn’t have, as it turned out.

Misty morning mountain views changed to clear sunny ones later in the day.

Kaoru sako, at the tea house, had told us that about 50% of those walking the Kumano Kodo were Australians.  We both thought this might be a big exaggeration, but we have since decided that perhaps there is an element of truth in what she said.   I had also thought that it was perhaps the Bali of Japan for the grey nomads, but have since revised that idea too, as there seems to be a wide age range and fairly equal distribution of Australians walking the Kumano Kodo.  We have seen a few Europeans, Americans and other nationalities, but, apart from the Japanese, Aussies are by far the biggest contingent. 

The group of Aussie blokes (+one Kiwi).

This was going to be a long day, and it was, but the sun shone as the morning progressed, and we got some fantastic views of the mountains as we walked.  We were pretty tired as we neared Hongu Taisha the place where we will pick up our dual pilgrim certificate in a few days time.

We began walking as per usual, up hill, but walking through the cedar and cypress forests were  delight.  There were a couple of detours on this route, one of which we knew about, and the other we didn’t.  These detours were due to landslides which have occurred. The one we knew about must have been quite a major one as this detour has been in place since 2011.  We had three passes to climb, which meant not only three climbs, but just as arduous, three descents, and eventually arrived at Hongu Taisha at 5.55!  We took a few quick photos while there were no tourist around and then sprang into action as we had decided that we were too tired to walk to Yunomine Onsen, where our accommodation was for the night and decided to catch a taxi.

One of 4 bits of rubbish I have seen!

Climbing - negotiating tree roots

Descending on rocks.......

........past shrines......

....to Hongu Taisha

Catching a taxi proved to be quite a challenge and indeed it was impossible.  A very kind young woman from one of the offices at the complex rang the Hotel, but they were too busy to come and get us.  Finally, after some discussion, one of the young men (not sure if he was a trainee monk or not), offered to “pick us up” – meaning take us there!  It was a good twenty minute drive for him and presumably out of his way, but we really appreciated his kindness.  It was a lot further by road than by foot, but it still would have taken us a lot longer.

Views of Yunomine Onsen

Dinner is very early in this part of the world.  We arrived just in time for dinner – an amazing spread.  What wasn’t so easy was sitting on the floor and eating, with no back rest!  I think to enjoy this experience, one would benefit from a lengthy stint of yoga!  This village is an onsen village (hence the name) – meaning that there are hot springs where one can bath.  Our accommodation had tapped into one of the hot springs and had an onsen on the premises.  An onsen is a communal bath house, usually segregated, with quite a custom to it.  One must shower / wash thoroughly before entering the onsen, which in this case was quite hot.  They are very therapeutic for tired walkers.  This village has a world heritage listed onsen where one can pay to sit in the creek bed itself.  The town smells quite strongly sulphur.

our dinner

Both Neil and I have come to the conclusion that this is not a medium hike, but has to rate as hard.  Our guide book says it is of medium difficulty, but to me it is very arduous.  Probably as difficult and arduous as anything I have done.  What makes it difficult is the steepness and the slippery rocks.  When it rains it is potentially very treacherous because of this, and I take extreme care as I descend – which makes me even slower!