Kumano Kodo wanderings: Day 4 – In a conga line of Aussies to Koguchi!

We set off this morning in a conga line of Aussies, walking in groups of 2 to 7 in size. We, and 6 blokes from the eastern states (with one ring-in Kiwi), are about the only ones carrying our packs, the rest carrying only day packs and having their HUGE bags transported.

Part of the conga line heading up hill.

Leaving Yunomine, by bus to the trailhead, was a challenge. The bus stop was just down the road and when we arrived a good ten minutes prior to the bus departure there was already a bus load of people waiting. Somehow everyone squeezed on the half full bus, and we wound our way along the steep road, taking on a few extra passengers a few stops along. We had to tell the blokes from Aus. that they could not possibly fit in. They decided they would walk to the trailhead, and caught up with us, and passed me, a few hours later.

Ready to board the bus in Yunomine

Arriving at the start (or trail-head) we stopped and had a coffee before heading up the inevitable stairs and beginning the up-hill slog. As on every other day the scenery has been spectacular, and was particularly beautiful in the sunshine. There were lovely views at the highest point, Sakura-toge Pass, and a number of people had stopped there to admire it.

A lovely message at the trailhead.

The path passes past someone's back door

And up we go!

Fortunately for me the climb this day was a little more gradual, though it came at the end of the day with a very steep descent. These descents scare me a little as I am nervous of the rocks and the stone stairs. Both can be very slippery, and although sometimes the leap from one to the other is small at other times it is quite large, and that is when accidents can occur. Whoever had set up the stairs had done this section particularly well, as mostly the rocks sloped backwards at the front of each step, rather than forwards, making it more difficult to slip off – but not impossible!! Interestingly though, the rocks on this part of the path seemed much less slippery than on the other side of the mountain. I suspect that it might be even wetter there and therefore the moss or lichen never dries up resulting in the slippery surfaces.

Stunning views

Both of us are finding that a breakfast of rice, salad, and other miscellaneous nibbles is not a high energy start to the day. I find that within an hour or so I am desperate to eat something. Thus, when we arrived at Koguchi, our destination for the night, we went shopping for biscuits, lollies and quick acting, high energy foods in preparation for what promised to be the hardest day yet.

Our rest spot here is a delight. It has a touch of sadness to it though as apparently there are no children left in the village to attend school and what was once quite a large school is now a B&B for pilgrims passing through. This however brings some work to the village, along with some income for the people remaining. The location of the village on the banks of a crystal clear, fast flowing, blue / green river, and surrounded by mountains is truly beautiful. A great place to rest, revive, and prepare for a strenuous day ahead!